Alphabetically, the Alaskan Highpoint is second on the list to be republished and it was also the second one that was tackled in my Highpoint Journey (after Mt. Rainier) – not sure how that happened! What I do know is that this it the one Highpoint that had the longest original writeup – the expedition was 21+ days long and I think that I wrote a page and added photos for each date. This was also one of the blog entries that I lost and most of the photos disappeared. In order to keep this blog entry as short as possible and as interesting as possible, I am not going to include much in the way of commentary but let the pictures tell the story.
In essence, we started this trip with a nice, orderly itinerary (see below.) Unfortunately, after Day 10, everything was thrown out the window as we got stuck at Camp IV for 9 days due to 60 – 80 mph winds at the 17,200′ Camp and we couldn’t move up. We had one shot at getting further up the mountain, summiting and returning to Base Camp so we could make our flights out of Anchorage and then home – the Mountain Gods ended up smiling upon us. Days 11 – 21 below were compressed into 2 1/2 days! Who needs a stinkin’ plan anyways?
First time to meet the team in Talkeetna at the Fireweed Station B & B. Todd and Winslow Passey were our guides and they are the two in the back right side of the picture. My tentmate Sebastian is the one in the grey shirt next to me. Poor guy , everyone else had paired up and knew each other but we were the “odd men out” and got stuck sharing a tent.Gear check.Climbing statistics when we checked into the Ranger Station in Talkeetna.Our West Buttress Route (continued on the next slide.)Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier.Big Ass packs! We started out with 70# of personal gear and 50# of group gear apiece. As we made multiple/double carries to most of the camps, these loads slowly got lighter and lighter – we would carry about 1/2 up to the next camp and then descend, spend the night at the lower camp and then take the other 1/2 up the next day. But the first couple days we didn’t double carry so the beasts were huge.Going around Windy Corner. The stupid sleds never tracked right and they were swinging like a 50# pendulum alongside of you, trying to pull you off your feet!14K CampClimbers approaching 14K camp – photo courtesy Joel Schenk!The rangers at 14K Camp would post on this board the weather conditions above us, letting us know if we should attempt to move up to 17K Camp. For nine days we would get up, look at the board and see that there were 60 – 80mph winds above us, go back to the tent and do basically nothing!14k Camp scene – photo courtesy Joel Schenk!On the 9th day we decided to try and make a carry up the headwall and to the ridge above.Nope! We were able to stash some equipment at the bergschrund but ended up going back to 14K Camp.Our cook tent at 14K Camp. YUM Dinner. As long as there was a roll of Oreos, everything was good!During one of the “down days” we hiked to “The Edge of the World” and look who showed up! Pre-husband Joel was with another group and we ended up at 14K Camp at the same time – what are the chances?!Finally a clear day as we leave 14K Camp and ascend to the headwall.We were not the only ones that made the decision to move up today!17K Camp with the route up to Denali Pass on the right-hand side.Instant tea from Dad that I took on the trip – it was left over from his 1962 trip to Denali – not very good!Up to Denali Pass before the sunrise.Rounding the corner near the top of Denali Pass.The “Football Field.”Summit RidgeYea Team!Looking back on the summit ridge and the hordes of climbers coming up after us. Caused an “exciting” traffic jam on the way down as multiple rope teams had to pass each other on some rather narrow ridgelines.Heading back down to Denali Pass.17K Ridgeline – one of my favorite photos as it shows how dicey some of the route is – contrary to those that describe climbing Denali as “just a long hike…” – courtesy Joel Schenk!Due to our compressed schedule, the route that took us 19 days to get to the summit, we descended in a little over a day.Our wonderful guides had the foresight to bury 2 cases of celebratory beer in Base Camp which we gladly enjoyed while waiting for our flight off the glacier. I don’t think beer had ever tasted better!ARGH We made it!Mountain statistics when we checked out at the Ranger Station in Talkeetna.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Joel and Alison's Excellent Adventures 