Since our failed attempt at Gannett last September (2015) we learned a few things. As we prepared for another attempt we looked at a lot of the logistics of the hike, focusing on the routes in and out. Although Gannett Peak in WY (elev. 13, 804′) is ranked #5 of the State Highpoints in elevation, it is ranked #2 in difficulty, mainly due to the approach. In the best scenario the approach hike 1-way to the mountain is 17 miles and in the worst it is 25 miles; as a comparison, the approach to the summit of Denali (West Buttress route) is 13 miles …

We decided to use a combination route that had some new scenery and some old scenery. This year our approach would be from the Ink Wells trail head. The Ink Wells trail head is located on the Wind River Indian Reservation and we were required to be transported by a “guide” via pick-up truck to the trail head. There was a $135 fee for the 1-way ride as well as a required $30 Tribal Permit and Stamp to allow us to be on the reservation. But from an effort standpoint this approach was 10 miles shorter and had 2,000′ less elevation gain. We decided to take the Glacier Trail out as that was pretty familiar to us and allowed us the flexibility to return early if we attained the summit on Day 5 or 6, whereas the going out the Ink Wells route would required a scheduled pickup on a given day, as well as another set of fees.

With food for 7 days, technical climbing gear (boots, crampons and ice axes) and the required bear protection (spray and specific food storage containers) our packs were immense. We tried our best to limit extraneous weight but we still probably averaged 50#. Of course that number was elevated due to the 10# of camera gear that Joel lugged up!

Our trip began in Dubois, WY, where we met Dan. A stop to the Grand Teton Brewing Company in Victor, ID en route provided carbo-loading opportunities for all. The next morning we arose early as we had to drop one car off at the Glacier Trail parking lot and then drive to Crowheart, WY, about 45 miles away where we would leave the 2nd car and get our ride to the Ink Wells trail head. Everything “seemed” to go like clockwork (remember this statement.) It took about 1.5 hours to drive the 8 miles on a sometimes very primitive access road that wandered up the hills and into the river drainage.

We finally made it to the trail head and started our journey. This first day was very different from last year as instead of a 12 mile hike, it was only 6. We hiked up through the woods where we found probably the biggest pile of bear crap any of us had ever seen. I asked Joel to stick his finger in it to see if it was still warm but he wouldn’t so we hiked very fast and very loudly until we got into the open. From there it was up and over Scenic Pass and down through the woods to our camp at Echo Lake.

The second day comprised of a 2 mile hike down from Echo Lake where we then hooked up with the Glacier Trail and continued on another 6 miles to the end of the Glacier Trail (elev. 10,200′) where we intended to camp. Along the way there were several stream crossings we had to negotiate – some we easily hopped over while others required removing the hiking boots and donning sandals or sliding across large logs.

We met a fellow climber on his way out that indicated he had started his summit attempt from where we were going to camp. He left at 2:30am, got hopelessly lost in the boulder fields, and it took him over 3 hours just to get to the base of the mountain, which was only 600′ higher. This snafu resulted in a 13 hour summit day for him which we wanted to avoid at all costs. Based on this information instead of going for the summit on Day 3, we moved most of our camp through the boulder fields to the area called Tarn Camp (elev. 10,800′) so we would be in better position for the summit attempt.

We allowed 3 summit days in our schedule so that we could try to wait out any bad weather instead of packing up and turning around. As there was (obviously) no phone coverage in the area, we had to rely on the weather reports from several days prior. Unfortunately, they were pretty much wrong! Monday and Tuesday were riddled with storms, wind, and hail – although Monday did look questionable from the forecast we read, Tuesday and Wednesday were supposed to be clear and sunny…

Tuesday we got up at 3:30am and peered out of the tent. Again the weather looked questionable, but better. There were patches of clear sky but they didn’t stay that way long. We decided to wait another day to ensure that the apparent good weather pattern held.

Every time the sun came out we questioned our decision to stay in camp but then another storm would come flying through and we were happy we didn’t go. To pass the time Joel and I climbed up the pass closest to our camp and looked down onto the Gannett Glacier on the other side. Then we hiked back down to the area prior to the boulder fields where we had originally set up camp to retrieve some more food. Lastly, Joel climbed up and did a second recon hike to ensure that he knew the route up through the scree and boulders – at 4:00am with headlamps it was going to be difficult to navigate.

Wednesday morning finally arrived and although still windy and cloudy, we made the decision to head up to the summit. We would climb as long as the weather cooperated and would turn around if it got dicey – this was our last day to attempt the summit and none of us wanted to have to endure the horrendous approach hike if we failed again! Unfortunately at this time Dan made the decision to stay in camp and not continue up with us. Based on the weather reports indicating better weather, he hadn’t packed clothes that he felt would keep him warm enough. He didn’t want to chance getting high up on the mountain with inadequate clothing and so he cheered us on from below.

Joel and I ate a quick breakfast of PopTarts (YUM), Clif Bars (YUCK) and Energy Gel and headed up.Unfortunately we negotiated the scree and boulders so quickly that we missed the cairn that Joel had put up the day before and overshot the snow ramp we were supposed to hit to gain access to the mountain. Then I had the brilliant idea to keep going in the direction we were headed … all together we wasted an entire hour getting back to the area we were supposed to be at. OOPS!

Once we got onto the snow, things went well, we traversed across  the first major snow field in just boots, then navigated through rocks to the access point where we would start the most technical part of the climb – the Gooseneck Glacier. We put on our crampons and headed up the 45degree slope (felt much steeper in some places!) The snow conditions were great and the dreaded bergschrund at the bottom of the glacier was still closed which afforded easy passage. The entire climb up (minus the hour we wasted) was about 3:45. Not bad for two old codgers! We both felt that the only real dicey part of the climb was the exposed summit ridge – one misstep and that would be the end. On the 70degree slope there was no way that you could self arrest.

The weather began to look menacing so we decided to head down. The trip down was uneventful and we looked forward to another yummy Mountain House dinner!

With most trips the return hikes are less eventful – less chatter on the trail and less photos taken. After 7 days on the trail, our trip was no exception … but wait. Do you remember that I mentioned that when we dropped one car off at the Glacier Trail head and one car in Crowheart, WY, that everything “seemed” to go well? As we were packing up, under bluebird skies to head out, Dan mentioned that he had looked and looked and looked and couldn’t find his car keys. Apparently he had secured his keys in his computer bag which he had left, locked, in our car … 45 miles away from where we were going to be. So, his car was sitting at the Glacier Trail head but he didn’t have keys … Oh well, we had 25 miles and 2 days to figure it out …

Our first day off the mountain consisted of traveling from Tarn Camp to Star Lake. This was about a 10 mile journey filled with the requisite stream crossings, mosquitoes, elevation gains and losses and overall aching feet. We camped at Star Lake in the exact same sites as we had during last years’ pukefest. Joel even remarked that there was a nice bunch of yellow flowers that had sprouted up where he had pooped – Huh, who notices that?

Once we settled in there were two fellows that appeared and asked to camp near us. We still aren’t sure what the relationship was but it seemed to be a guide and a very unhappy client. After cursing and screaming at each other for a couple of minutes, they didn’t talk to each other for the next 12 hours as far as we could tell.

From Star Lake to the trailhead consisted of a trail that went down to Double and Phillips Lakes, up to Arrow Pass and then down from the pass to the infamous 30 switchbacks and then finally to the car. Joel set off at a blistering pace. I had a hard time keeping him in sight and got pretty tired. We agreed to take a rest stop at 2 hours but I needed to sit down and take a break 90 minutes into it. At that time Joel remarked that to hike at my pace he would essentially be walking backwards (NICE ONE.) It seemed that the team was finally starting to unravel!

Figuring that the best chance to find someone in a timely manner to drive one of us the 45 miles to Crowheart to pick up our car and Dan’s keys was to send Joel ahead, we did just that. The main concern that I had was that he would overexert himself with the task at hand and not stop for food or water breaks. Not to worry … at the trailhead he happened upon 2 couples that were just finishing up their hiking. After hearing Joel’s tale of woe, they agreed to drive him to Crowheart … but only after they had lunch and gave him 2 sandwiches. No wonder Joel didn’t seem too hungry when he came back and rescued us!

We were finally in our vehicles and drove back to Dubois,WY, to find a motel and dinner. The first thing everyone did was take a nice long shower … thankfully. The next morning we met at a local coffeeshop and parted ways. Back to all the fun stuff waiting for us at home!